WHAT IS RETINOL?
There are so many different types and brands of retinols out there and finding the correct one for you can be overwhelming.
Results from this wonderful ingredient rely heavily on how the product is formulated. As a clinical skin therapist, I love to explain the ins and outs of how ingredients work and the effect they have on skin conditions such as acne, dehydration, rosacea, pigmentation, wrinkles, redness and more!
Retinoic acid is a form of vitamin A. When we talk about retinol in skincare, we are talking about retinoic acid. This is the state in which the Vitamin A gets absorbed and utilised effectively by our skin. We have retinoic acid receptors in our skin! SO cool! NOT every retinol product is the same strength or derivative of vitamin A. In skincare, there are 4 main types of vitamin A used.
RETINYL Palmitate; often used in gentle, over the counter skincare. This is the mildest form of vit A and requires multiple conversions into retinoic acid; the state in which our skin actually absorbs and utilises the vitamin A. This may not create much impact on your skin.
RETINOL; most common type of Vitamin A found in skincare. Found in over the counter products as well as professional grade products. Just two conversions are required in the skin for retinol to become retinoic acid and be absorbed by the skin. Retinol is very effective at treating congestion, fine lines, pigmentation, dehydration and more.
RETINAL; Becoming more common in professional skincare ranges and for good reason! Retinal requires only one conversion to become retinoic acid and is a really safe but effective form of Vitamin A. Usually it is recommended to start the skin on a retinol before moving to retinal.
RETINOIC ACID (TRETINOIN); found in prescription products. Can be highly effective for treating severe acne or ageing, however long-term use can lead to irritation, redness and dehydration due to trans epidermal water loss. Often a skin with severe acne will already have an impaired barrier which is why I would recommend consulting with a skin specialist before going straight to prescription retinols.
SO.. let’s not “guess” or follow trends or friends when it comes to skincare but especially retinol! You can cause more damage if you choose the wrong product. You can also waste money and end up thinking retinol was all just a hype.
Q: How does it work?
Retinoic acid increases our cell turnover rate! The cell turnover is the natural process our skin is always going through. Think fresh new cells coming to the surface of the skin and then shedding. This process happens roughly every 4-6 weeks but slows down as we age. Infact, it slows down to 90 days by the time we are 80! That’s only 4 times a year! A slower cell turnover can lead to dehydration and dullness but also congestion.. A skin combo that is oh so common post MENOPAUSE.. which is another topic that I look forward to writing about.
But.. WHY should I increase my skins natural cell turnover rate?
Increasing the cell turnover will help reduce stubborn pigmentation over time as pigment cells lay deep in the epidermis. It will also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles AND reduce acne and congestion. Often a build up of congestion is due to slow cell turnover, dry skin or thickened sebum (oils).. all of which retinol will treat.
IS RETINOL AN EXFOLIATER?
Our cell turnover is our natural form of exfoliation.. so yes, retinol exfoliates the skin. It is the only exfoliater that works from the inside out (think pushing deep cells to the surface rather than just peeling or scrubbing off top cells). This is why retinol can create a PURGE (break outs!) when you first start using it (usually lasts no longer than 6 weeks). Persevere with this.. its worth it!
Retinol is one of my favourite tools to treat so many skin conditions including concerns of ageing, acne, pigmentation, texture and more!
If you would like to know more about what’s right for you, feel free to reach out or book a consultation with Ruby at SKINN By Ruby.